Нарушая запреты Шанель

Создана 08 декабря 2012 Blondini
Нарушая запреты Шанель
У Карла Лагерфельда уникальный талант создавать новые современные коллекции, сохраняя ДНК модной марки. Где бы он ни работал: в Fendi, Chloé, Chanel, он всегда действует в рамках фирменного стиля, при этом задавая новый вектор моды. Таков Карл, – он легко вписывает узнаваемые элементы бренда в реальность сегодняшнего дня, это совсем не просто, учитывая, что легенду того или иного Дома начинал писать другой человек.
В 1983 году немецкому дизайнеру доверили наследие самой Коко Шанель, «не такое уж большое, как это может многим показаться», – так прокомментирует приемник Великой Мадемуазель четверть века спустя. Проработав в Chanel около 30 лет,  Лагерфельд  заявляет, что не согласен с некоторыми устаревшими взглядами своей предшественницы. Эта точка зрения прослеживается в коллекциях Карла Лагерфельда для бренда Chanel, в которых он нарушает «незыблемые правила» его основательницы. 
Итак, основные запреты Коко Шанель, которые нарушил Лагерфельд.
Запрет первый: сюрреализму не место в моде.

Нарушая запреты Шанель

        Платье с лобстером Эльзы Скиапарелли                 Вечернее платье Шанель, 1940 г.,
                                                                                                               фотограф Хорст П. Хорст
 
В 1930-е годы главной конкуренткой Шанель была Эльза Скиапарелли, предложившая  миру моды смелый и яркий сюрреалистичный стиль. Стиль Шанель и сюрреализм два совершенно противоположных направления, которые, тем не менее, имели одинаковый успех, и нашли своих последователей. Но Великая Мадемуазель не признавала коллекции своей соперницы, считая, что сюрреализму с его эпатажными образами, яркими расцветками, странными формами, не место в моде: настоящая женщина должна выбирать элегантность и лаконичную роскошь.

Что делает Карл? 
Могла ли предположить Габриель Шанель, что спустя несколько десятилетий из стен ее Дома будут выпущены коллекции с сюрреалистичным оттенком? Лагерфельд не раз прибегал к приемам сюрреализма в коллекциях Chanel. Вспомним туфли с каблуками-пистолетами, которые приглянулись Мадонне в 2008 году.
Нарушая запреты Шанель
Мадонна в туфлях Chanel в 2008 г.
Нарушая запреты Шанель

В коллекции Chanel сезона  осень-зима 2009/10 вновь появились туфли с сюрреалистичными каблуками с кольцами.


В летней коллекции 2012 года Лагерфельд представил аксессуары в форме морских раковин – эксклюзивные вечерние клатчи, выпущенные в ограниченном количестве и сапожки с фигурными каблуками.

Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel весна-лето 2012
Запрет второй: нет большим сумкам.

После триумфального возвращения в мир моды в 1950-х годах, Коко Шанель удивлялась новым тенденциям. Так, она не могла понять, зачем молодым манекенщицам, которые приходили к ней на примерки, такие большие сумки. «Не представляю, что они в них носят», – говорила создательница культовой сумки 2.55, отличавшейся компактными размерами. По сути, форма и размер модели 2.55 – это золотая середина между маленькими ридикюлями, которые Мадмуазель «устала постоянно терять», саквояжами и сумками-портфелями.

Нарушая запреты Шанель
Фотография в Vogue US 1951 г.                                            Коко Шанель с сумкой 2.55
После триумфального возвращения в мир моды в 1950-х годах, Коко Шанель удивлялась новым тенденциям. Так, она не могла понять, зачем молодым манекенщицам, которые приходили к ней на примерки, такие большие сумки. «Не представляю, что они в них носят», – говорила создательница культовой сумки 2.55, отличавшейся компактными размерами. По сути, форма и размер модели 2.55 – это золотая середина между маленькими ридикюлями, которые Мадмуазель «устала постоянно терять», саквояжами и сумками-портфелями.
Что делает Карл?Лагерфельд не задает вопросов, зачем женщине такая сумка, он просто удовлетворяет ее желания. В конце 1980-х гг. он создает новую версию сумки 2.55 внушительных размеров, которая, впрочем, никак ни повлияла на популярность классической модели. Сегодня в коллекциях Chanel представлены сумки разных форм и габаритов.

Нарушая запреты Шанель
Vogue Italia, июнь 1990 г., фотограф Стивен Мейзел,
модель Линда Евангелиста
Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel осень-зима 2006/07



Запрет третий (самый строгий): нет мини-юбкам, у женщины всегда должны быть скрыты колени.

Нарушая запреты Шанель
  Мини Мэри Куант                                      Классический костюм Шанель
Габриель считала колени самой уродливой частью женского тела, и не собиралась укорачивать юбки и платья только потому, что это этого требовала мода 1960-х гг. На тот момент Коко было за 80 лет, конечно, она была консервативна, как и многие женщины в ее возрасте, но кто знает, может, мадмуазель кусала локти от того, что не укоротила юбки раньше британских дизайнеров? Она всегда критически относилась к инновациям, которые предлагали ее конкуренты: она ругала Скиапарелли за сюрреализм, Кристиана Диора за нью-лук, не понимала стиль 1960-х, то есть она отвергала все то, что ввели в моду другие люди, а не она.
Что делает Карл?В 2010 году на конференции Luxury Heritage, организованной газетой «International Herald Tribune»,  Лагерфельд  подчеркнул два главных просчета Габриель Шанель, допущенные на закате ее карьеры. Первый из них – это отказ от длины мини. В ответ на вопросы о мини, Шанель заявляла, что не знает ни одного мужчины из своего окружения, которому бы нравилась женщина в короткой юбке (!). Карл прокомментировал, что этим мужчинам просто неудобно было признаться пожилой женщине, что полуобнаженные ноги могут выглядеть сексуально. Шанель продолжала шить юбки ниже колена, но интерес к ее бренду стал пропадать, по словам Лагерфельда «она потеряла свою власть, и людям уже было все равно, что она делала». Если в 1930-е ее мнение было авторитетным, то в конце 1960-х она стала терять свою былую хватку из-за не желания идти в ногу со временем.

Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel весна-лето 2007
Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel от-кутюр весна 2012
Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel весна-лето 2012


Лагерфельд, возглавив Chanel, первым делом отбросил в сторону предрассудки Великой Мадмуазель, в его руках стиль Шанель стал эволюционировать в такт новой моде. На его показах для Chanel появились мини-платья, мини-юбки, мини-шорты – самые востребованные вещи на протяжении последних десятилетий.Запрет четвертый: нет синим джинсам.Вторым просчетом Шанель, по мнению Лагерфельда, является отказ от джинсовой моды, она не любила вещи из синего денима, которые в 1960-х были настоящим хитом. Стиль Шанель не допустит джинсы считала Коко, но кто стал ее слушать?Что делает Карл?Лагерфельд смело вводит в «репертуар Chanel» те самые синие джинсы, и не только синие, а еще черные, белые, коричневые, которые отлично сочетаются с жакетами Шанель и белым жемчугом.

Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel весна-лето 2008
Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel Resort 2013
Нарушая запреты Шанель
Chanel весна-лето 2008


Резюме. Карл Лагерфельд вдохнул новую жизнь в стены Дома Chanel в 1980-е гг., вернув ему статус культового бренда. По его словам, ему достались знаковые детали Дома, которые он рассматривает как ноты, и как хороший музыкант, он не будет повторять мелодию Шанель, а сыграет свою.


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